Modern-day indoor bouldering has evolved. With traditional rock-climbing origins, the crimp grip has less influence today with consumer demand leading the way.
For outdoor rock climbing, this grip simply a must and the bread and butter of a day on the rock. Indoors however, the demand is very different and the mass market of modern bouldering does not derive from the outdoor world. Put simply, the demand for crimpy boulders is low and the market is different.
It doesn't mean there isn't a need or a place for it. It definitely has its place. However, hard crimpy moves attract little traffic relative to though-provoking interesting boulders of different styles. Look at the statistics (if you have them) and the market rarely lies.
In the individual competition world (especially with youth), defining an outcome by a style that the athletes don't want seems archaic. It's a cheap easy way to separate the athlete so it still happens. The finger/contact-strength to bodyweight ratio is still of the utmost importance.
Yes this is a contentious space and one without definitive boundaries Wild fluctuations in results at even the highest level of individual competition can be a result of many different factors but the most effective recipe is clear.
The ability to hold and move off really small edges is only one component of the Bouldering equation so should it be the determining factor in a can or can't situation?
The future seems to be moving in the opposite direction both from a recreational and competitive perspective. We'll see.
11 Nov 2024